I recently took an unforgettable 15-day trip to Morocco with my spouse and four of our closest friends. Our itinerary included Casablanca, Marrakech, Erg Chigaga, Taroudant, and Essaouira. The scenery was mind-blowing and the cities vibrant, but my highlight was how friendly and welcoming the locals were, everywhere we went.
We did a lot of research before deciding on an itinerary and booking our trip. In this post, I’ll share what I learned before and during my trip, and hopefully inspire you to choose Morocco as your next big travel destination.
1. Where to stay and how to get around
Accommodation
One of the appeals of visiting Morocco is to experience the riads. Riads, Arabic for ‘gardens’, are traditional Moroccan homes with an indoor garden or courtyard. These little urban oases are usually located within the historical parts of the cities and are insulated with walls to shield them from the heat and the noisy streets. In Marrakech, we stayed at Riad Botanica, and it was one of the highlights of our trip. The staff were extremely friendly and took good care of us. This is one of the best hotels I’ve ever stayed at!
Logistics
Major cities are connected by reliable, high-speed trains, with simple websites to buy tickets online. We took a train from Casablanca to Marrakech. Our seats were comfy, and the staff were friendly. I recommend taking the train over driving when possible, as it’s less time-consuming.
For destinations not connected by train, we hired two drivers. The advantage of driving is you see so much more and can stop in random places you wouldn’t be able to visit otherwise, getting a better sense of what the less populated areas look like. On the downside, we spent some of our days mostly inside cars (the estimated time provided by Google Maps and the tour companies were always off by an hour or two). It can also be uncomfortable for those of us who are prone to car sickness as some roads are windy. So, make sure you pack some Gravol ginger with you. The locals shared a natural remedy with us: cumin infusions do wonders for motion sickness and stomach issues.
To get around Marrakech and Casablanca, we relied on taxis. Although we weren’t initially aware, most cabs in Morocco either don’t have or use metres. Because of this, it’s important to ensure you and the driver agree on a price before starting your ride. If you’re not sure what’s reasonable, either look it up online or ask your hotel or riad owner at the beginning of the day. Also keep in mind that taxis are more expensive at night, so you won’t pay the same fare to go to the same destination.
Planning a desert excursion
The most memorable part of our trip was our two-night stay in the Erg Chigaga dunes in the Sahara Desert. A lot less popular than the Agafay desert, which is located only 30 kilometres outside of Marrakech, Erg Chigaga is less accessible and requires an 8-hour drive from Marrakech. The drive was long but scenic as we passed through the Atlas and anti-Atlas Mountains, visiting local argan oil producers and carpet makers, and stopping in interesting towns we had never heard of.
Erg Chigaga, or as our drivers called it “the real Sahara Desert”, is a feast for the eyes. We stayed in luxurious tents nestled between sand dunes and enjoyed a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The sand is thin and soft – it is said to cure foot problems – and all we could see in the horizon were sand dunes. We even saw wild camels strolling and feeding off trees. We met a family of Tuareg people, a nomadic Berber ethnic group travelling across the Sahara. They offered us mint tea and sand-baked bread. It was particularly interesting for me as my great-grandfather was Tuareg. We sat on the sand at night and admired the unobstructed night sky – I counted 11 shooting stars in one night!
If you’re planning a trip to the Sahara Desert, ensure you hire cars from a trusted tour company with adequate vehicles for off-road driving, and that they’ll provide all meals and appropriate water supplies for the full duration of your excursion. In doubt, ask the tour company what will be provided and read the reviews carefully. We also packed chips and pop for the drive.
2. What and where to eat
The food is healthy
The food was healthy everywhere we went in Morocco. Tagines are a staple of Moroccan cuisine and are served in most restaurants. They consist of a stew prepared with spiced meat and vegetables, cooked slowly in an earthenware dish. This cooking process is healthier as it relies on steaming instead of frying the food with oil. There are countless tagine recipes, each family having their own, and they can be vegetarian.
Being a pescatarian myself, I never had issues finding delicious options suited to my diet while eating out.
Explore the markets
There are souqs (markets) in every Moroccan city, where you can try all sorts of delicious food. Some of the stands are impressive for their colourful displays. You may be overwhelmed at first and go into sensory overload being surrounded by so many options. I strongly recommend hiring a trusted local guide to explore the markets for the first time. We did this in Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakech and embarked on a 20-delicacy tasting journey! We were shown where locals shop, and we tried new delicacies we had never heard of before.
Fresh fruits
Fruits are one of the most common items sold in the markets. I recommend doing some research to familiarize yourself with the local fruits before venturing out. From freshly squeezed pomegranate juice, to juicy figs and dragon fruits, or dried citruses, to name a few, the markets are a paradise for fruit lovers.
I was particularly interested in tasting as many varieties of dates as possible – about 45 varieties are grown in the country – so I learned about them before my trip. This way, I knew what to look for while wandering the markets and had a more informed and fun shopping experience. The Medjool date was by far my favourite. It is known for its excellent quality as it is larger and sweeter than other varieties.
Preserved lemons are another delicacy to try if you’re up for it. They’re prepared by slicing the lemons and covering them in salt before sealing them in a jar for months, sometimes years. The lemon will grow and release juice with time. The longer you keep it in the jar, the stronger the flavour.
Amlou
Another local dish to try is amlou. This spread made of almonds, honey and argan oil is delicious. It was often served to us for breakfast, and we couldn’t stop eating it. You can find it in small stores and supermarkets. A small jar makes the perfect gift for friends and family.
Argan
Speaking of argan oil, this is one product you’ll find everywhere in Morocco. Argan is a plant oil produced from the kernels of the native argan tree. During our road trip, we sometimes saw them by the side of the road. We also witnessed wild goats fully perched on them. Our driver told us that they’re attracted to the sweet smell of the argan. It’s used in cosmetics, for its skin and hair benefits, as well as in food products. There are stores that specialize in argan, selling all sorts of derived products. We brought a lot of argan soap back with us as their compact size made practical gifts.
Don’t drink the water
Morocco’s tap water isn’t advisable to drink for foreigners. To avoid frequent visits to the stores and having to carry heavy water bottles, not to mention the plastic waste, we purchased Larq bottles before our trip. These single-use water purifying bottles come in different sizes and are easy to use. They filter contaminants from the water making it safe to drink.
In some smaller towns, public washrooms might ration the water. We were offered a scoop or two of water to wash our hands without soap. So, if you venture into more remote areas, I recommend carrying hand sanitizer or a small soap bar with you. You may also be required to leave a small tip for the washroom keepers, so remember to always have a bit of change in your pockets.
You may also want to consider getting a Yellow Fever vaccine. While not a requirement for entry, it’s recommended by the Canadian government.
Enjoy the rooftops
Marrakech is specifically popular for its rooftop patios, but you’ll find many in most cities, so make sure you take advantage of them and enjoy at least one meal with a view. If you time it well, you’ll see a beautiful display of orange and pink created by the reflection of the sunset on the colourful walls, or an amazing view of the water if you’re by the coast.
3. Where to shop and how to bargain
Currency
You’ll be expected to pay with cash in most markets. The Moroccan dirham is a closed currency, meaning you can’t bring it in or out of the country. Make sure you don’t carry it with you at customs or you could end up being questioned by the authorities. I exchanged a large amount of cash at the airport upon arrival, then went to the ATM when I later ran out. I usually avoid buying currency from an airport booth, but I was pleasantly surprised by the competitive rate offered at the airport.
Moroccan people speak many languages
The Moroccan population is polyglot. The two official languages are Darija (Moroccan Arabic) and Moroccan Berber. Because of colonialism – France colonized Morocco from 1912 to 1956 – many people still speak French, especially the older generations. It’s also estimated that more than 10% of the population speaks Spanish, especially in the northern regions due to their proximity to Spain. Finally, with the tourism industry consistently growing, more and more people are speaking English. Speaking English and French fluently, it was easy to interact with the locals and bargain with the market vendors, but I also learned the basics of the local language (hello, thank you, etc.) as a sign of respect.
The art of negotiating
Bargaining is an art in Morocco, or as one local described it to us, it’s “a dance between the buyer and the seller.” While less common in Canada, this is a necessary skill to acquire for a successful shopping experience in the markets. We rarely saw price tags, so we had to ask the shop owners. This is where the negotiating starts. A few tips I learned:
- The first offer is never the final price, so always try to bring it down. The vendors will give you a higher one anticipating you to negotiate.
- Play it cool! Indeed, if you seem too eager to buy an item, it’s less likely the vendor will budge on the price.
- Don’t give up; it might take some persistence to bring the price down.
- Know when to walk away if the negotiation is going nowhere. It might encourage the merchant to call you back and start compromising.
- Always specify the currency (US dollar, Canadian dollar, Euro, Dirham, etc.). With tourists coming from all over, merchants sometimes negotiate in the buyer’s currency before converting it.
While bargaining might make you feel uncomfortable, the locals told us that shop owners will have more respect for you as a buyer if you bargain.
4. Safety measures to keep in mind
LGBTQ+ Laws
Our group included four LGBTQ+ people and one woman, so we did extensive research on local laws and safety measures. Morocco’s penal code criminalizes “lewd or unnatural acts with an individual of the same sex” and it can be punished with a jail sentence of up to three years and a fine of 1,200 dirham ($400 CAD). Our research revealed that tourists were very rarely targeted by these laws. Public displays of affection are also strongly discouraged, and that goes for anyone. We used common sense and never discussed our relationship statuses with our guides or the locals. We never had any issues, but it is a sad reminder of the struggle LGBTQ+ locals endure daily.
We were cautious and emailed our accommodations and tour companies to ask them if they were LGBTQ+ friendly before booking anything. The majority welcomed us, with the exception of one tour company who didn’t respond to our inquiry, so we knew not to book with them.
Women Safety
The one woman in our group felt fine in the cities but did get called out a few times in the smaller towns. Being a man, I didn’t experience it myself so I’m not the best person to give advice in this regard. So, if you’re a woman travelling alone, I recommend learning from the experiences of female travellers in Morocco before travelling to certain areas.
Terrorism Concerns
We never felt unsafe during our trip. In fact, the last terrorist attack targeting tourists (when this post is being published) was in 2018. Terrorist attacks are more frequent in many European countries. According to the Global Terrorism Index, Morocco has a more favourable ranking than most western countries, including Canada! Simply stay up to date with the latest travel advisories from the Canadian government and avoid certain regions.
Common scams
Upon arrival, our riad owners warned us about common scams targeting tourists. Some people will approach you to offer a service and pass it as an act of kindness then charge you for it later. Examples include offering to take photos of you and your group (sometimes with them) and offering directions. We came across it a few times, but they were never aggressive, only slightly insistent. The best thing to do in this situation is to think before you accept anything from a stranger and decline politely. If they insist, ignore them and they’ll lose interest. We were also told by the locals that the best way to get rid of them is to shout “Police!” We never felt unsafe, so we never went to that extreme.
Other safety tips for any destination
I usually observe the following rules no matter where I travel:
- Don’t visit ATMs at night and only withdraw from one located inside a reputable bank, during business hours so they can immediately retrieve your card if it gets stuck.
- Use cash over credit cards for smaller purchases in markets or smaller stores.
- Always put your wallet in a closed pocket.
- Only carry enough cash with you for the day; leave your passport and other valuables in your hotel room safe.
- Research which neighbourhoods/areas are unsafe to visit before heading out for the day.
5. Local customs worth noting
It’s always a good idea to familiarize yourself with local customs before a trip to ensure you don’t offend the locals. This is what I learned both before and during my trip.
‘God, king and country’
These three pillars of Moroccan society should never be disrespected. A good rule of thumb is to avoid discussing these topics during your stay, whether amongst yourselves or with the locals. You could offend people if they hear you make casual remarks or make your guide uncomfortable if you ask them what they think about the king, for example.
Ask permission to take photos
Never take a photo of someone without asking permission first. I was mindful of this while photographing the streets and monuments. Having a crowd in the background is fine but avoid taking photos of specific people or their shops without ensuring they’re comfortable with it first. I personally believe this rule should be observed more widely.
Also, never photograph military installations or service people.
Take your shoes off inside
I’m a big believer of this rule, sometimes having to tell my guests to take their shoes off at home when they don’t do it automatically. In many parts of the world, such as Morocco, it’s rude and unsanitary to leave your shoes on at home. While this rule might not extend to big hotel chains, it will likely be observed in riads. The same goes if you’re invited to someone’s home.
Mint tea
Mint tea is rooted in the local culture and is consumed daily. It’s even considered rude to refuse it if your host offers it. It’s often served before and after a meal as it helps with digestion. I indulged at first but then put a stop to it in the evenings as the green tea that is mixed with the mint leaves kept me up at night.
Drinking alcohol
Alcohol is forbidden by Islamic law, but it’s widely available for tourists. You can buy it in licensed liquor stores and, while not all eateries will serve it, a fair number of restaurants have it on the menu. Keep in mind that consuming alcohol outside of a licensed establishment is prohibited and may be punished by detention or other penalties.
Hammams
Hammams are traditional Moroccan spas where you get washed, scrubbed, and wiped with a towel in a steamed room. In the more traditional ones, the steam rooms are shared by all customers – but not between men and women. The one that we went to was attached to a bigger spa where we had a private steam room to ourselves (since we were tourists, men and women could stay in the same room) and there was an indoor and an outdoor swimming pool. I highly recommend you experience this essential part of Moroccan culture during your stay.
Wild cats
Wild cats are common sights in Morocco, especially in urban areas. The locals take care of them, and in return the cats take care of mice and rats. It’s a great unspoken agreement. Most of them look well-fed and clean, but as tempting as it might be to pet them, they remain wild animals and could potentially carry diseases like rabies. I had to resist the urge to pet them many times, especially when they came close to me, but I often shared my meals with them. The town of Essaouira specifically was filled with them.
Visiting a mosque
The Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca is one of the few mosques that allow non-Muslim visitors. Located on a seawall along the Atlantic Ocean, it was completed in 1993 and can welcome up to 105,000 worshipers. You need to buy a ticket for a guided tour during visiting hours and respect the dress code and photo-taking guidelines. While I didn’t go inside, I enjoyed it from the outside. The view of this majestic monument completed by the crushing ocean waves makes for spectacular scenery. If Casablanca isn’t on your itinerary, I strongly recommend making a detour solely to enjoy this sight.
I hope you’re now inspired to explore beautiful Morocco. The locals were extremely welcoming to us, and we had a fantastic time!
Safe travels,
Thomas
